Who picked these wines? Andy Fortgang—one of Food & Wine’s 2019 top sommeliers—relocated to Portland from New York in 2007 and is now co-owner of Le Pigeon, Little Bird Bistro, and Canard.

The Eyrie Vineyards 2015 Original Vines Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills The name says it all: this wine comes from the Willamette Valley’s original pinot vines, planted by David Lett. Eyrie’s wines are now crafted by son Jason, and superbly so. This pinot is as delicate and precise as fine crystal, but with a core of fruit and a lasting sense of terroir. Buy Providore, $80

Bergström 2017 Shea Vineyard Oregon Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton Many wineries produce a Shea Vineyard pinot noir, but year-in and year-out, Bergström produces one of the finest. This has the power and deep fruit often associated with the site, but Josh Bergström and company also coax out clear notes of spice, flowers, and stones. Buy E&R, $70

Walter Scott 2017 X Novo Vineyard Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills Co-owner and winemaker Ken Pahlow loves Burgundy, and uses that mind-set and technique to craft amazing, site-specific, proudly Oregonian chardonnays. The X Novo vineyard is planted with around 15 chardonnay clones; diversity that crescendos here in complex, vibrant flavors. Buy Great Wine Buys, Mt Tabor Fine Wines, $65

Analemma 2014 Atavus Vineyard Blanc de Noirs, Columbia Gorge When the first bottling of Analemma’s blanc de noirs hit less than 10 years ago, the wine world took notice. From 50-plus-year-old vines, it spent almost four years in bottle before disgorgement. This Oregon gem may be the best American sparkling wine yet made. Buy E&R, $59

Hiyu Wine Farm The May II Columbia Gorge Red, Columbia Gorge Hiyu isn’t afraid to try different things. This wine is its exploration into the potential flavors and texture of pinots both noir and gris—a solera of five vintages long aged in neutral barrels with textures more reminiscent of nebbiolo. A must for Oregon pinot drinkers looking to expand. Buy E&R, $105