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Co-owner Kevin Dorney rehabbed a Cully corner market and smoke shop into the light, bright Beeswing, which opened amid snow and ice storms in January.

On a weekend morning, Beeswing looks more like a community meet-up than a restaurant—neighbors crowd its blond wood tables, juggling toddlers and mimosas or micheladas. Packed with house-baked, smoked, and roasted comfort, the cheerful breakfast and lunch spot is as cozy as your own kitchen table—if you don’t mind happy kid shrieks soundtracking your refills of Stumptown.

A former market/smoke shop in rapidly ascending Cully, Beeswing is huge. You could fit three normal-size brunch joints inside the old-newspaper-wallpapered dining room, or four if you count the sprawling patio that fills up at the first hint of sunshine.

Opened in January, Beeswing set its early foundations strictly as a brunch spot, running the quintessential egg-based Portland playbook, with nearly everything made in-house, from pastries and the spice-laced berry jam to the sourdough bread you slather it on. There’s a breakfast sandwich with spicy aioli, frizzled prosciutto, pickled onions, and a lace-edged fried egg. A Korean twist on a Benedict centers on a big, fried scallion pancake paired with fish-sauce-braised pork belly and perfect poached eggs.

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Beeswing's sourdough waffles come slathered with fruit compote.

But Beeswing is more than a cookie-cutter brunch spot. There’s a standout sourdough waffle—a Belgian Liège–style checkerboard of tart goodness, slathered with fruit compote—and little Dutch babies often show up on special, their toasty, furled edges holding pools of berry juice and islands of mascarpone. Don’t ignore the beef-and-stilton pie, a triumph of long-simmered meat, veggies, and molten blue cheese funk swimming in a winey sauce topped with a puff pastry crown. With luck, it’s a harbinger of the homey dishes the kitchen aims to serve at Friday and Saturday dinners starting this month.

And for dessert, there’s seasonal pie, marionberry to apple. You could always share a slice with your neighbor.

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Beeswing

$ Bakery, Breakfast / Brunch 4318 NE Cully Blvd.

Beeswing’s blond wood tables and booths are crowded with neighborhood families meeting up for brunch, each with a couple of toddlers and a few mimosas and mi...