While the ampersand trend is a tired joke in Portland restaurant names, in rural Oregon any place with “Store & Tavern” in its title is worth a stop.

Thirty miles northeast of Joseph but more than 2,000 feet lower in elevation (and thus warmer), the Imnaha Store & Tavern sits as one of the most remote bars in the US—it's just over six hours from Portland. So it’s understandable that it moves a lot of merch—people want a souvenir to prove they made it all the way to this ramshackle 1904 building that’s close to Hells Canyon and nothing else. But the charms of this longtime landmark—now home to fried-food favorites, draft PBR in mason jars, antique décor, a pool table, a friendly patio cat, a TV tuned to the Cowboy Channel, some grocery shelves for locals putting off a trip to the Safeway an hour away in Enterprise, and lots of taxidermy—go way beyond its well-designed hats and hoodies.

The all-ages tavern (it sells baby onesies) is a grown-up hangout at heart. A “used beer depository” sign points to the bathrooms, where risqué calendars hang in dusty heteronormative fashion, and on the ladies’ room floor, a portrait of a beaver is made from pennies. The men get to stand on penny-art trout. On the walls behind the bar hangs an “Expose Yourself to Art” poster—in which a former Portland mayor does just that—along with a sticker calling a former governor a “tyrant,” a sign proclaiming the beer “colder than your ex-wife,” and instructions not to “bullyrag” the bartender.

Unlike Imnaha, the Summerville Store & Tavern, just off OR 82 between La Grande and Elgin (20 minutes off I-84, and about four and a half hours from Portland), doesn’t sell T-shirts or postcards as proof you bellied up to its bar. But the attached convenience store sells greeting cards featuring dramatic horse artwork by a local veterinarian and doubles as the town’s post office, too, so you can at least write home about your new favorite bar.

That’s because the Summerville Store & Tavern is a triple-threat medal contender in the bar Olympics, likely to end up on the podium for best burger, friendliest service, and coldest beer. We didn’t visit on its monthly pizza night or during live music, but we hear it throws down in those departments, too. We may have to make some return trips for research.