Smallwares' Ssam-Style Feasts Shake Up Typical Family-Style Fare

From internationally-inspired lamb to Korean/Southern barbecue spareribs, chef Johanna Ware wants you to expand your definition of family dinner.

By Kelly Clarke December 1, 2014 Published in the December 2014 issue of Portland Monthly

This season, gather with your loved ones for some serious feasting at Smallwares and its slinky, red-lit boîte, Barwares, where chef Johanna Ware prepares a trio of gorgeous ssam-style dinners that feed up to eight people for less than $150. The mash-up-loving chef offers both a cumin-perfumed Chinese/Middle Eastern riff on lamb and Korean-gone-Southern barbecued pork spareribs. Her stylish take on a traditional Korean-meets-Northwest family meal centers on a massive whole roast salmon (above). Fragrant with ginger and cilantro, the fish is carved table-side and served with a rainbow of sweet-tart, spicy, and funky dipping sauces, pickles, and kimchis, from apple to cabbage. Tuck all those savory goodies in crisp scallion pancakes, ruffle-edged lettuce, or nori. Every bite is a flavor-zinging present. Ssam-style dinners require 72-hour notice. Call for reservations.

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