PODCAST: Chef Aaron Barnett on Ego, Offal, and the Next Big Threat for Portland Restaurants

The chef of St. Jack and La Moule has spent a decade in Portland, watching it become a city where "kidneys sell like crack." Now he sees the restaurant world changing around him.

By Ramona DeNies June 27, 2016

Aaron Barnett isn’t the kind of chef/owner who comes in once a week to yell at his staff. He does that every day, while working the line at his hit Francophile establishments St. Jack and La Moule. As Portland has boomed, he’s seen the rise of a rustic-sophisticate palate—we’re now a city where “kidneys sell like crack.” But Barnett says there’s a reckoning coming for restaurants like his: an “unsexy” stew of population growth, rising costs, cook shortages, and new competition from the pop-up revolution.

Download the Long Play on iTunes.

Audio production by Samala Coffey

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