The tough choices begin as soon as you enter St. Jack's bigger, brighter location on a bustling corner of NW 23rd Avenue. Take the door on the left to cozy up in the dining room, complete with plush banquettes and delicate wallpaper, or veer right to nab a seat at the bar to hobnob with the restaurant's signature wax-covered haystack candles. If you're waltzing in Monday through Friday from 4 to 6 pm, go right: you're in for a bar-only happy hour straight outta Lyon.

The eclectic menu offers a chance to taste some of the highlights of the eatery's celebrated fare with the tasty bonus of major savings—which, of course, should be put directly towards a few extra sips. Start with a refreshing $6 butter lettuce salad, garnished with avocado, thinly shaved radish, and fines herbs, lightly covered with Dijon vinaigrette, then tuck into a plate of tablier de sapeur (aka crisp fried tripe, but doesn't the French sound better?) served with a red onion caper mayonaise only $5. Round out your French fare with a hearty bowl of clams meunière ($8) served with perfect French bread to soak up and savor the buttery white wine and garlic sauce.

In the mood for something a bit more indulgent? St. Jack's once-secret burger ($9) comes loaded with Gruyere, bacon lardons, pickled onion, caramelized onions, and a sauce made from demi glacé, cornichon, dijon, and crème fraîche on a butter bun—and you want it in your mouth. The bouchon's poutine ($8), made with shoestring pommes frites and chunks of cheese curds and crimini mushrooms, is given an update with duck confit gravy, and any Porklandia resident is obligated to sample the house oreilles de crisse—yes, we're talkin' pork rinds, dipped in maple syrup—and at just $4 for a few hefty slabs, ordering another round will be the easiest decision you'll make all day.

St. Jack
1610 NW 23rd; 503-360-1281
Happy Hour: Monday-Friday (bar only), 4 to 6 pm