Eat This Now

The Secret Find at Stacked Sandwiches? Salad

Portland’s new sandwich upstart has an unexpected strength.

By Benjamin Tepler July 10, 2017

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The Wedge Salad at Stacked Sandwiches

Salads are famously neglected at temples to bread worship—either omitted entirely, or simply deconstructed sandwiches sans gluten. But Stacked Sandwiches, run by fine-dining convert Gabe Pascuzzi (he worked at New York’s Colicchio & Sons and staged at Copenhagen’s famed Noma), is the exception. 

Pascuzzi might make the best wedge in the city: bits of crispy fried shiitake “bacon,” oil-cured tomatoes, and garlicky croutons fill every crisp fold of lettuce, generously coated in a creamy, smoky blue cheese dressing. It barely resembles the vegetarian appeasement at hot wing joints. An arugula Caesar, meanwhile, is slicked with potent, boquerone-forward dressing and showered in real parmesan. We haven’t sampled it yet, but the smoked salmon with charred scallion, market berries, radishes, and avocado in goddess dressing is bound to be good.

And, if you’re surprised that a sandwich shop with a reputation for killer oxtail French dip hoagies and roasted leg of lamb sandwiches (which you should absolutely get if you are carnivorous) is turning out such great salads, dig even deeper. The Korean-fried tofu and kimchi slaw on brioche and a zucchini torta number slathered in salsa verde and topped with house smoked mozzarella are stars in a meat-loving menu.

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