Food News

This Week in Portland Food and Drink: November 12

Breaking: Expatriate reopens this week for takeout only. Plus, Fermenter takes over Farm Spirit; Karen Brooks is now streaming; new gluten-free, vegetarian pop-up Raíz returns; mushrooms aplenty at Higgins.

By Katherine Chew Hamilton November 12, 2020

A Fermenter burger.

The Return of Expatriate


Sure, Expatriate is technically a bar, but it’s also beloved for its burgers—which come two to an order—and its nachos made with won ton chips and lemongrass beef. After months of closure due to the pandemic, the kitchen will reopen by Friday, November 13, with a pared-down version of the menu that includes burgers, nachos, tea leaf salad, shrimp toast, and hot and sour Indian spiced fries. The kitchen will be open Thursday through Saturday only; order via direct message on Instagram, with service on Caviar likely to come next week.


Fermenter Takes Over the Farm Spirit Space

Fermenter, the vegan, self-described “beneficial bacteria emporium” that used to be located around the corner from Farm Spirit on SE Morrison Street, has taken over the Farm Spirit space at 1403 SE Belmont St. Fermenter earned plenty of love from our critic Karen Brooks in our February issue for its misos, tempeh, and kombuchas. The space that used to serve as the dining room at Farm Spirit is now reminiscent of a deli, with soups, sandwiches, bowls, salads, and sides ready to eat, plus vegan charcuterie (tempeh bacon!), kefir and kombuchas galore, and pantry provisions including vegetable krauts, hot sauces, nut-based spreads, and plant-based cheeses. They’ll also be serving breakfast bowls, sweet and savory tartines, and Proud Mary coffee on Saturday mornings. If you’re inspired to get into some fermenting yourself, you can also pick up pickling, kombucha-making, or kraut-making kits.


PoMo Critic Karen Brooks: Coming to a Screen Near You

In case you missed it, our restaurant critic Karen Brooks appears in episode 1 of Hulu’s Eater’s Guide to the World, which was released on November 11. In the episode narrated by Maya Rudolph, Brooks visits Courier Coffee, Eem, and Han Oak. Check out arts editor Conner Reed’s interview with Brooks here.


There’s a New Vegetarian, Vegan, and Gluten-Free Pop-Up in Town


Raíz, a new BIPOC-owned pop-up held at gluten-free and mostly vegan bakery and cafe Tiny Moreso in Cully, has already opened preordering for its next event on November 20 and 21. Its first and most recent pop-up in October sold out. The gluten-free, vegetarian, and partially vegan menu includes a chicory salad with citrus, pistachio, mint, and popped sorghum; sweet potato gnocchi with spigarello, capers, golden raisins, pecorino, and walnuts; braised borlotti beans with cabbage, eggplant, pickled onions, and hazelnuts, and more.


Forest Mushroom Dinner at Higgins Restaurant

This annual fall tradition at classic farm-to-table restaurant Higgins returns this week for indoor dining; reservations are still available for dinner on Thursday, November 12, for $75 per person. In total, six different mushrooms are featured: golden chanterelle, matsutake, cauliflower, porcini, Oregon black truffle, and candy cap mushrooms. The meal includes a forest mushroom cappuccino; nori rolls with tamari-ginger glazed matsutakes; cauliflower mushroom pakoras; a main course of goat cheese pie with truffles and porcini; and candy cap poached pear bread pudding with ginger crème anglaise for dessert. Call the restaurant for reservations.

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