Eat Cheat Sheet

Where PoMo Food Editor Katherine Chew Hamilton Eats Off-Duty

Comfort food is the name of the game.

By Katherine Chew Hamilton December 1, 2022 Published in the December 2022 issue of Portland Monthly

Though higher-end restaurants started coming back into the fray this year, my favorite spots on regular rotation serve meals that make me feel nourished and comforted. You can indeed fill your belly with sushi for $30, and there's a Korean home cooking destination that warrants the drive to Hillsboro over and over. There's a food cart that'll make sure you always have leftovers in your fridge, and a Northeast taqueria and a Beaverton Indian restaurant that are guaranteed to make you sweat. I'm betting they'll become part of your list of favorites, too.

Taqueria La Mestiza

Madison South
In Portland’s strong Yucatecan scene, this restaurant stands out for its super-delicate panuchos—fried handmade corn tortillas stuffed with black beans—and comfort dishes from banana leaf tamales to inky black relleno negro with tender turkey. 8525 NE
Fremont St


Umma

Hillsboro
Umma means mom, and the restaurant delivers everything you’d hope a Korean mother would: house-made banchan, crisp seafood pancakes, bubbling stews, and a warm welcome. The standout yukgaejang boasts spicy, beefy broth with glass noodles, fluffy egg, and tender brisket. 2020 NE Cornell Rd, Hillsboro, 503-746-6163


 

Kee’s Loaded Kitchen

King
Netflix’s Street Food USA featured owner Kiauna Nelson dishing massive meals of fried catfish, chicken wings, ribs, and brisket from a small cart. Portland has been in on the secret for a few years; Kee’s loyalists line up well before opening. Plates are loaded with sides like mac ’n’ cheese, greens, and potato salad, plus house-made cake and lemonades like passion fruit or strawberry. 5020 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd


Apna Chat Bhavan

Beaverton
The huge masala dosa at this counter-service restaurant-meets-grocery is crisp and tangy with generous potato curry filling and coconut chutney. Other highlights include fire-red chilli chicken and Friday through Sunday goat biryani hot enough to make you reach for the yogurt sauce. 1815 NW 169th Pl, Ste 6020, Beaverton


Bluefin Sushi & Tuna

Irvington
Going out for sushi often involves heartbreaking decisions. Do I want quality fish or do I want to keep my wallet intact? Thankfully, all the boxes are checked here—$26 gets you adorable round nigiri, a simple roll, salad with poke, tempura, and miso soup. 1337 NE Broadway

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