Best Restaurants 2022

PoMo Food Writer Matthew Trueherz’s Insider Picks

What do the magazine’s food writers eat when they aren't working? Classic sushi, straightforward pho, serious sandwiches, and more.

By Matthew Trueherz December 5, 2022 Published in the December 2022 issue of Portland Monthly

Have you ever felt seen by a restaurant? Are there places that somehow just get you? For me, there’s a certain burger that scratches a certain itch, and a bowl of pho that regularly leaves me spellbound; these are the places that “live rent free in my mind.” It’s not for their particular news-worthiness, or their outlandish takes, but for their consistently craveable staples, and their true-to-themselves vibes.

Image: Michael Novak

Tulip Shop Tavern 

Humboldt
The best-in-class burger is the sun that specials like “snowgronis,” mom tacos, and fried bologna sandwiches orbit around. There’s nothing fussy about bar food here, but with just enough attention to details, classics like generously battered, doughnut-size onion rings reach their full potential without being ruined by fanciful touches. 825 N Killingsworth St 


Someday  

Richmond
Someday is now every
day: the pipe dream of bartender couple Jessica Baesler and Graham Files feels more like a curated dinner party than a business. Crudités, natural wine, a house vermouth blend, tinned fish, and occasionally a more substantial entrée are on offer, whether you’re sitting at the cozy-chic indoor bar or on the patio out back that feels like an upscale cookout. 3634 SE Division St


Murata  

Downtown
A bona fide classic. Sitting at the foot of the towering 200 Market building makes Murata feel rightfully important. Rub elbows with suits at the sushi counter, or call ahead to reserve one of the private tatami rooms. Ordering the specials is good practice everywhere, but it’s an absolute must here—the autumn-only matsutake mushroom soup might be the most soul-warming dish in town. 200 SW Market St


Image: Johnny Le

Thom  

Concordia
My rule is the smaller the menu, the better the food. As one of just four menu items, Thom’s beef pho gets the love and attention it deserves, and it shows in the snappy meatballs, tender-braised brisket, and delicately poached, razor-thin steak. 3039 NE
Alberta St


Sorbu Paninoteca 

Concordia
Sorbu’s house-baked sourdough ciabatta and focaccia alone are enough to run a business on. But paninoteca means sandwich shop, so they load them with porchetta, tender-braised octopus with potatoes, or the Tuscan specialty torta di ceci (chickpea flatbread) with marinated eggplant. All of this—plus espresso to keep your buzz going post-sandwich—happens in a tiny food cart. 5011-B NE 42nd Ave 

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