The 2023 PoMo Weird Wine Challenge

The 5 Weird (in the Best Way) Wines Shop Owners Can’t Stop Talking About

We asked local bottle shop staff to tell us about their favorite innovative vinos. They had a lot to say.

By Jordan Michelman August 16, 2023 Published in the Fall 2023 issue of Portland Monthly

Michael Kanbergs

Image: Michael Novak

Imagine that you have a thirsty and curious population of two million locals, who happen to live alongside a robust local wine production industry; a vigorous circuit of importers and distributors; and the absence of sales tax. What do you get? Portland’s deep and sometimes dizzying bottle shop scene.

Over three dozen bottle shops populate Portland city limits. Their sheer scope and number allow owners to propagate their own wine philosophies, and curate to their own whims and tastes, informed by Oregon’s distinct culture. No two Portland wine bottle shops are alike. (This is a good thing.)

Amid this much variety, things are bound to get a touch weird. And they do. Within these businesses dwell fantastical wines to stagger the mind, stir the soul, and, yes, boggle the taste buds. We reached out to five of Portland’s bottle shops and asked them to recommend a particularly innovative offering from their shelves. The recommendations steer global, featuring wines that range from subtly quirky to psychotropically outré. 


Ocean Yap-Powell

2020 Bourgogne Aligoté, Le Domaine d’Edouard

$33

“When I visited Burgundy, this blew me away. Some really cool growers are thinking about how to make great wines from Aligoté, the other white grape from Burgundy, as opposed to the more famous chardonnay. Wines from Burgundy can often be too expensive for most people to enjoy, but aligoté offers an entry level to learning about the region. It’s so lovely and easy to drink, I just want more and more of it. It’s a wine that is both serious and really fun at the same time.” —Ocean Yap-Powell, Burgundy and Oregon specialist, E&R Wine Shop, 6141 S Macadam Ave


Sergio Licea

2021 Domaine Les Aricoques, Roussette de Savoie

$54

“Savoie may be the most underappreciated French wine region. This is hands down the finest example of an old-vine altesse [white wine grape] I’ve ever had. Subtle aromas of quince, elderflower, chalk, marjoram, and chamomile gently evolve from the glass. The palate steals the show with a fresh, polished acidity that introduces a mineral-rich, light and juicy body that finishes bone dry with food friendly notes of lemon pulp, wet stones, and a saline undertone. Total production for this is a mere 2,400 bottles.” Sergio Licea, co-owner, Flor Wines825 NW Glisan St


Taborly Wine Shop

Image: Michael Novak

2021 Vignoble du Rêveur Rien Ne Bouge

$30

“This is Mathieu Deiss’s other project when he isn’t occupied by the legendary Alsatian vines at Domaine Marcel Deiss. Intact pinot noir grapes are steeped in pressed pinot blanc and gris juice, creating a wine that’s not orange, definitely not white, but not really red either. What it is, though, is delicious, and it represents his pursuit of freedom from definitions of wine. Spicy like cinnamon and peony floral, its juicy cherry fruit is supported by delicate minty herbal notes. Drink it naked for the full freedom experience.” Michael Kanbergs, owner, Taborly Wines, 4316 SE Hawthorne Blvd


Victor Martinez

Image: Michael Novak

La Gazzetta Vino Bianco GO5

$39

“The winemaker is actually from Australia. She’s worked with incredibly influential wineries in Italy’s Lazio region, and now she makes her own natural wines from a property in the volcanic lakes above Rome. This wine comes from unusual grapes, including Procanico and Ansonica, which are long-fermented on their skins for a month and placed in large chestnut barrels. It produces this really cool earthy flavor, but with lots of stone fruit sweetness and depth. It is a totally wild orange wine, but not necessarily ‘easy’ or ‘juicy’—more like a complex, medium-bodied sort of thing, almost closer to drinking a red wine in terms of body and texture. She is a tiny winemaker, still very under the radar, and we’re the only shop in Oregon with her wines, which are extraordinarily good.” Victor Martinez, co-owner, Ardor Natural Wines, 4243 SE Belmont St


David Hunter

Domaine Comte Abbatucci, Vin de France Blanc Faustine

$48

“This wine from the island of Corsica is emblematic of small producers doing things by hand. Abbatucci is a biodynamic producer, which means the effort and attention he pays in the vineyards is really focused, and this bottling uses the vermentinu grape, which is native to the island. It’s floral and beautiful and easy to drink, and absolutely makes you think of the Mediterranean. This is the kind of producer we want to support here, and as a bottle of wine it’s absolutely delicious to share with friends.” David Hunter, general manager and sommelier, Cru & Domaine, 1723 NW 24th Ave 

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