1159 el brasero snkhim

THE HANDWRITTEN SIGN out front of the El Brasero taco truck sometimes reads Rica Barbacoa. It means “delicious braised meat,” and you should trust it, especially since the meat in question at this particular taco haven happens to be lamb shoulder that’s been braised until it’s falling off the bone rather than the usual beef. After that? It’s shredded, sprinkled onto warm, chewy corn tortillas and then topped with cilantro and chopped onion. But it’s what comes with these tacos that makes this particular barbacoa so rica. On the side, a cup of steaming lamb broth—made from the juices that the shoulder stewed in and accented with rice, bits of lamb and chickpeas—makes a luxurious, soupy gravy. Dip your lamb taco into it. Come for more tomorrow. —CD