JUDGING by the growing number of Vietnamese restaurants in Portland, it seems safe to say that most of us are acquainted with the curative Vietnamese soup called pho, especially since its herbal bite has the power to take the edge off the bleakest of Portland winters. But from Vietnam’s tropical latitudes come culinary offerings suited to warmer weather as well, not the least of which is bun tom thit nuong. A satisfying dish defined by a nest of thin, curly Vietnamese rice noodles known as bun (pronounced "boon") sprinkled with bright mint, cilantro and crisp, cool vegetables, it is as ubiquitous in southern Vietnam as hamburgers are here. And like that backyard barbecue favorite, it provides a great excuse to fire up the grill on the first balmy night of spring.

The key to a successful bun dish is to build it layer by layer, allowing each disparate component to fulfill its unique role. Lining the bottom of the bowl are crunchy lettuce leaves, mint and slivers of cucumber. Next, a tangle of noodles is tossed in, followed by bean sprouts and thin bits of pickled carrot and daikon (and sometimes red cabbage for a hit of color). Topping it all off are skewers of grilled, juicy pork and shrimp, typically seasoned with a refreshing lemongrass marinade. The great unifier of the dish’s elements is nuoc cham, a light, tangy dressing made with fermented fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and chiles.

Served in deep bowls, bun is the ultimate all-in-one meal. "With Vietnamese foods, there’s always a yin and a yang," says Elizabeth Van, a co-owner, with her husband Lam Van’s family, of Pho Van and Silk restaurants. "You have lime and sugar, garlic and honey, and the coolness of vegetables contrasting with hot meat from the grill. Everything is balanced."

Van, who moved to the United States from Vietnam when she was 5, describes bun as ideal for gatherings. Pho Van’s recipe can easily be double or tripled to feed a crowd, whom you can enlist to help chop vegetables and thread the skewers. So put it on the menu for your first alfresco feast. After all, anyone can grill burgers.

Bun Tom Thit Nuong

 Serves 4