Eat This Now: Brunch at Lauretta Jean's

The all-butter crusts still draw a crowd, but there's much more than pie happening here (especially on a weekend morning).

By Benjamin Tepler May 1, 2013

Biscuits and gravy at Lauretta Jean's

Image: Nomad

Lauretta Jean’s has done more than bring serious biscuits and deep pie love to SE Division Street since it opened last fall. LJ’s new branch—its first sit-down space—now offers a slice of something different: brunch, served on a delicious platter with fine cocktails to match. Expect egg-driven classics galore, fortified with owner and pastry whiz Kate McMillen’s masterful butter craft.

Most recently home to Pix Pâtisserie (which reopened on E Burnside Street alongside its new tapas/dessert spot, Bar Vivant), the 24-seat space now features robin’s-egg blue walls, white wainscoting, and quirky posters advising customers to “Smoke Weed, Listen to Neil Young, and Split Wood.” Order from the counter, where fresh slices of blackberry streusel and ethereal quiche beckon from a vintage jewelry display case, and grab a stool beside one of the sun-flooded windows up front.

Lauretta Jean’s
3402 SE Division St

A small weekend brunch menu holds seasonal indulgences, like piles of creamed kale mounded over fried eggs, a breakfast galette cradling seasonal veggies, or biscuit sandwiches crammed with brussels sprouts, egg, and melted jack cheese. The star of the show is a magnificent eggs Benedict. It’s the classic setup: quivering poached eggs, ample slices of smoked Otto’s ham, and a thick, lemony hollandaise, all perched atop crunchy, flaky, golden biscuits.

Wash it all down with a dozen libations, ranging from a powerful Bloody Mary thick with horseradish (a new contender for best in the city) to the Cat’s Pajamas, featuring Campari, grapefruit, and a float of tequila and Prosecco. It’s at the top of our no-wait brunch list (we’ll see how long that lasts), and another bright spot on Division’s culinary corridor. 

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