Here’s Your Pine Street Market Cheat Sheet

Food critic Karen Brooks shares picks from Portland’s first food hall, packed with eats from eight celebrated local restaurateurs and counting.

By Karen Brooks May 19, 2016 Published in the June 2016 issue of Portland Monthly

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Wiz Bang hot fudge sundae

Image: Karen Brooks


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Trifecta Annex meatball pie

Image: Karen Brooks

Spelt Croissant or Spicy Coppa Pizza
Veteran baker Ken Forkish reconsiders the croissant, splendidly, with nutty spelt tones to match regal butter notes; watch for warm, oven-fresh batches throughout the day. From his roster of “New York-y” pizza slices, grab the spicy-sweet coppa salami and hot honey. 


Hot Fudge Hazelnut Sundae, Salted Caramel Stout Float, Chocolate Tacolate
So far, non-cone options star at Salt & Straw’s ambitious soft-serve experiment. The hot fudge sundae gobs together rich Woodblock Chocolate soft serve, fresh angel cake, and hazelnut “Nutella”; the float fizzes with piercing dark caramel beer and sweet cream soft serve, and the hand-dipped “tacolate” redefines the Choco Taco, period.

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Common Law beef tongue banh mi

Image: Karen Brooks


Shiitake-Smoked Tofu Soup and Macha Grasshopper
The obvious go-to at chef Patrick McKee and Earl Ninsom’s micro French-Asian bistro bar? Tender beef tongue banh mi. What you don’t know you want? The complex mushroom dashi bowl—a meat-free sleeper hit best slurped with a lush, tea-intensive Grasshopper.


Half Bird, Chips with Salsa Vermella
In a miniature vision of Spain, Toro Bravo chef John Gorham conjures a tapas bar, wall-size rotisserie, moody lighting, and one very appealing deal: super-juicy chicken and radicchio salad for $10. A side of crackling house potato chips, funked up with Pollo’s hot sauce, is mandatory.


Plain Dog or Hound Dog
The cured-meat masters at Olympia Provisions unleash more than a dozen crazy ideas from the empire’s frankfurter laboratory. But OP’s good, old, meticulous Plain Dog still rules. That said, the Hound Dog’s thick-cut bacon, smoky apple butter, peanut butter, and bananas is more delicious than it has any right to be.

Upcoming: Watch for Portland’s best cold brew at Barista’s Brass Bar, pork tonkatsu ramen at Marukin Ramen and Tasty n Son’s famed shakshuka at Shalom Y’All—not yet open at press time.

Pine Street Market
126 SW Second St

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