Some wineries specialize in pinot; others in sparkling. Cho Wines’ niche is experimentation. Owned by couple Dave and Lois Cho, the winery released its first eight wines in 2021 all made from pinot noir grapes, displaying the range of what can be birthed from a single varietal, using methods from blanc de pinot noir to pétillant-naturel. Since then, they’ve plunged into several winemaking styles, from piquettes to coferments, and branched into unusual grapes like Aligoté.

Their practice is rooted in age-old winemaking, with a tangible spryness. “I want to be agile with what the season gives me—but I do have a classical background and training,” says winemaker Dave. “I don’t want to be dogmatic.

Nowhere is this strategy more on view than in their pet-nats, which include pinot noir, pinot gris, and chardonnay. Pet-nats are all the rage right now, beloved for their light bubbles, quick fermentation, low alcohol, and juicy flavor. Because the typical pet-nat method involves bottling before fermentation is complete, much is unpredictable. The yeast in a pet-nat can make the bottle foam over when opened—leading customers to lose half their wine.

Cho Wines uses what he refers to as “methode Dave,” a more controlled process called col fondo that draws on both the traditional (Champagne) and ancestral (pet-nat) manners of making sparkling wine. Like the traditional method, he starts by fermenting grapes in the tank until all the natural sugar in the grapes has been consumed, and the grapes’ natural yeasts have died. Then, he adds a tirage, which is a combination of yeast and sugar. By letting the wine go completely dry, then carefully measuring the yeast and sugar, he can precisely calibrate the amount of sediment as well as the bubbliness of the wine—he aims for half the strength of Champagne.

The wine is then bottled and capped, where it starts its second fermentation, which could take anywhere from 15 months to 10 years for Champagne. But at Cho, this is halted after just three months for a fresh, juicy flavor. And unlike Champagne, he does no removal of yeast sediment after bottling (disgorgement), nor does he add sugar to produce desired sweetness (dosage).

Expect much more innovation from the Chos. Their vineyard features 11 soil types, ranging from volcanic to marine sedimentary soil. “[There’s] a lot of variability,” says soil scientist Andy Gallagher, who’s conducted soil studies on more than 300 wineries. “It allows a lot of different blocks of wine.” So far the Chos have planted several soil types with pinot noir and chardonnay, so they can play with how soil types affect wine flavors. In the right hands, their vineyard is a promised land of experimentation.

In May, Cho Vineyards opened to the public in the Chehalem Mountains outside Hillsboro. The current makeshift tasting room is what glamping dreams are made of, with a wooden deck and canvas tent, surrounded by a 77-acre vineyard; a brick-and-mortar room will open next year. The winery offers standard tastings ($40), with a charcuterie box for two ($40), as well as VIP tastings with tours ($95). 

Where to Sip and Nosh at Cho Wines

Two wines to try together: The 2021 Pinot Gris Pétillant-Naturel (Wine Enthusiast score: 89 points) is a lightly bubbly, dry wine that’s bright, tart, and reminiscent of citrus zest—and low-alcohol enough that you can sip with near abandon. It’s almost buttery and gentle on the palate thanks to the hint of sediment—which is “less of a flavor thing, but more about the mouthfeel,” says Dave Cho. “A young sparkling wine can be harsh because of the acidity, but the sediment makes it a little more smooth.” The 2022 Pinot Noir Pétillant-Naturel has a similar bubbliness, light alcohol, and mouthfeel, but with a berry-like flavor and a hint of pepper.

Cho Vineyards, 23975 NE Albertson Rd, Hillsboro