Top 10 Portland Dishes of 2023

Xiao Ye's masa and rice madeleines sit on a bed of seaweed butter.
Image: Foundry 503/Josh Chang
Portland’s hundreds of excellent restaurants, food carts, and bakeries make it a challenge to narrow down the 10 best dishes of the last 12 months. In a roller-coaster year marked by a flood of surprising closings and wildly successful openings, the chefs behind these 10 spots held the course and wowed us with memorable dishes that we look forward to revisiting in 2024.
Sweets First

Libre's Vale la Pena (mole crème brûlée) and Sangre de Dioses (mole milk punch)
Image: Foundry 503/Josh Chang
Vale la Pena (mole crème brûlée) and Sangre de Dioses (mole milk punch) from Libre
Libre, the new cocktail and dessert bar from Nan Chaison (Mestizo, Norah) and Gabrielle Martinez (@sweetcreaturepdx), offers many sweet and boozy pairings. Our favorites so far are two mole-based numbers: the Vale la Pena, a subtle mole-tinged crème brûlée with a crispy sugar top and a dollop of bone marrow caramel ice cream, and the Sangre de Dioses, a mezcal-based mole milk punch that brings out the mole’s spices and depth.
Halo halo from Magna Kubo
Magna Kubo has a lock on both smoked meats and good ice cream. Specifically, the halo halo from resident pastry chef Allie Guevara (of Allie G’s Pastries) is not to be missed. It’s a massive 20-ounce treat that combines housemade bright purple ube ice cream with sweet jellies, condensed and evaporated milk, crushed ice, rainbow cereal dust, and silky, pudding-like leche flan. They’re sized for sharing—but you certainly don’t have to.
Best Bites
Pastrami and swiss croissant from Babcia Bread
One of Portland’s top bakeries is a well-kept secret: a Friday through Sunday pop-up within pizzeria No Saint. The pastrami and swiss croissant, best lightly reheated, is sure to impress, with a generous amount of salty meat and just a little gooey cheese for good measure. Your table will be covered in flaky pastry when you’re done—the true mark of a good croissant.
Masa madeleines from Xiao Ye
While Xiao Ye’s first-generation cuisine draws heavily from Taiwanese and Italian influences, one of its best dishes comes from neither. Tiny, lightly sweet madeleines are made from rice flour and masa—the latter of which gives them crunch and extra-toasty flavor. They sit on a bed of jalapeño butter; be sure to scoop it all up for an ideal start to your meal.
Breakfast Perfection

A steamy bowl of goat birria from Birrias Tamazula
Image: Michael Novak
Goat birria from Birrias Tamazula
Every weekend morning I think about stopping by this family-run birria restaurant in downtown Gresham for a big, steaming bowl of goat birria. Goat ribs arch dramatically out of the stew, which is sided by light, fluffy tortillas. Ask for the Lao-style hot sauce, blasting with spice and such good smoky flavor that you can’t stop eating.
Fluffy buttermilk pancakes from Hunker Down
Dishes to Die For

At Chelo, chilaquiles rellenos—crispy cheese-stuffed masa dumplings—hide under a spicy red salsa.
Image: Courtesy Luna Contreras
Chilaquiles rellenos from Chelo
Could chilaquiles get any better? Leave it to chef Luna Contreras. She takes fresh masa, stuffs it with cheese, deep-fries it, and drowns the cheesy things in spicy red salsa and a showering of cotija cheese. True to Contreras’s eclectic, veggie-forward style, it’s well-garnished with chia seeds, sesame seeds, radishes, and little greens. This dish is a prime example of her pop-up Chelo, firing on all cylinders at Lil’ Dame.

Saba battera roll from Kaede
Image: Courtesy Kaede
Saba battera roll from Kaede
This Sellwood sushi restaurant specializes in sushi rarely found elsewhere in Portland. The rectangular saba battera roll combines sushi rice with pickled mackerel and a thin layer of kombu, and is blasted by a butane torch for extra drama and flavor.

Bucket fish from Sichuan City
Image: Josh Chang/Foundry 503
Bucket fish from Sichuan City
Sichuan City is one of my favorite restaurants for a group, whether for birthdays or book clubs. Its bucket fish is a showstopper, a bubbling cauldron of fish filets, tofu skin, pickled cabbage, Sichuan peppercorn, and sliced green chile that requires at least six people to take it down.
Corned beef silog from Sunrice
Almost anything can be turned into silog (fried garlic rice and a sunny-side up egg): just add hot dogs or Spam or bacon or fried chicken or yes, corned beef. Preferably Sunrice’s housemade corned beef, made with lots of tender, sizable chunks of beef head, that on its own would win an award for some of Portland’s best corned beef. The garlic rice takes it to another level.