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FORGET EVERYTHING you think you know about tofu—unless you already know that tofu can, when prepared right, be silky and luscious and light enough to melt on your tongue. That trick is precisely what makes the classic Korean tofu soup known as soon doobu so superb, especially when it’s served at Toji Korean Grill House. Brought to the table in a hot clay pot, soon doobu comes bright red and bubbling, spiked with pieces of soft, trembling, custardy tofu, a smattering of tiny shrimp and the barely perceptible flavor of calamari and cayenne. Make haste to crack the egg on the side and stir it into the sizzling cauldron, where it thickens the already rich soup as it cooks. The result? The soft tofu slides effortlessly onto the spoon and into your mouth, and the sour, spicy broth chases it down. It’s even better than Chinese hot and sour soup for clearing clogged heads during winter. And don’t worry if your dining companion is an ardent carnivore: Once they’ve sampled Toji’s variety, even the staunchest tofu-protestors succumb.