Best Restaurants 2016: Brunch Bliss

Three Exceptional New Portland Brunches—Without Lines

Only chumps wait for their waffles.

By Karen Brooks and Zach Dundas October 10, 2016 Published in the November 2016 issue of Portland Monthly

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Expatriate

Verdigris

It’s OK, it’s happened, we’ve all done it: you have confused “standing in line” with “having a great brunch.” Verdigris, a dignified little white-walled room on NE Fremont Street, is here to sort out the category error. This is a place where you can—wait for it—make a reservation for brunch, for a party of any size. You can then enjoy such refined (but generous) offerings as ricotta pancakes with fig compote and chantilly like the civilized human you are. The 60-minute eggs with ham is something of a house signature, while the duck fat hash browns could well become an addiction. 1315 NE Fremont St, verdigrisrestaurant.com —ZD

Expatriate

These are the waffles prophecy foretold: divinely crunchy, crowned with spicy chicken and pickle-craft, or, if you like, a frozen wonder of black sesame ice cream. They’re dispatched in a Hemingway-meets-Chinatown setting for Expatriate’s weekend brunch, while a High Fidelity–caliber record collection spins on two turntables. And if you think you’re bored with Bloody Marys, think again. Like everything here—fantastic, condiment-crazed congee to a suave, shrimp-toasty burrito—Expat’s Bloody ripples with spice and adventure. 5424 NE 30th Ave, expatriatepdx.com —KB

Whiskey Soda Lounge

On weekends only, in a colorful setting of Cambodian pop and Asian ephemera, Thailand’s little-known a.m. flavors make a rare appearance in Portland (or America, for that matter). Andy Ricker, founder of neighboring Pok Pok, concentrates on his ongoing traveling breakfast rituals: sweet pork-laden buns; jok creamed with bouncy pork, crullers and pandan coconut custard for dipping; stir-your-own coddled eggs with finger-size “soldier” toast, and, of course, drip-brewed Vietnamese coffee. 3131 SE Division St, whiskeysodalounge.com —KB 

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