Eat Here Now

Where to Eat This Week: Apr 18–24

Multisensory salmon carpaccio at Bistro Agnes and buttery media noche at Palomar are your required eating for the week.

By Eat Beat Team April 18, 2018

Img 7937 ypbfws

Salmon carpaccio at Bistro Agnes

Image: Karen Brooks

Fork into salmon carpaccio at Bistro Agnes

West End’s French bistro, courtesy of the Ox folks, turns out a surprisingly light seafood starter for lunch and dinner. The delicate, house-smoked salmon comes dotted with grated horseradish, pipette dots of crème fraiche, dill, and curls of crunchy, bitter endive lettuce. It hits a multisensory sweet spot without busting your gut. (It does, however, make a good front-runner to a 12 oz steak frites.)

Manhandle a gordita at Los Alambres

With orange floors, pastel-painted picnic benches, fake flowers, and light pouring through its dining area’s plastic walls and translucent transom (a flattened Mission Foods crate), food-cart taqueria Los Alambres perches at the end of a SE 82nd Mexican market and bakery like a cheerfully ramshackle annex. Big appetites can opt for the house special of alambres—a meaty mess grilled with peppers and cheese, served with warm tortillas and a slice of ham thrown over the top like a blanket—or one of the many generously packed tortas. For a snackier one-hander, Los Alambres’ gordita, a corn-flour pocket stuffed with pork, cilantro, and queso fresco, is one of the best around. 

Slurp a hefty cioppino at Jacqueline

This is a deluxe take on the humble fisherman’s stew. Atop a thick, tomato-rich jumble of mussels and clams sits a thick, skin-on salmon fillet with a crispy skin and a soft, tender center. And on top of that? An overflowing wedge of toast, slicked with garlicky remoulade, spicy slivers of jalapeno, and a generous pile of Dungeness crab. The seafood jamboree will easily feed two hungry eaters.

Wolf down a media noche at Palomar

Only a few weeks in, SE Division’s Havana-channeling Palomar isn’t quite ready for prime time: most of the Cuban fare is one-dimensional, with bland fricassee de pollo, under-salted empanadas, and an unbalanced slushie daquiri. (The kitchen is slow as molasses, to boot.) The exceptions? A buttery media noche, with house-roasted pork, ham, pickles, mustard, and melty swiss. It’s like a Cubano, but with softer, sweeter bread, and no panini press treatment. Wash it down with a sweet, fruity Hotel Nacional (shaken with rum, lime, apricot, and pineapple), and make it your go-to while this buzzy new bar gets its feet.

Show Comments