Market Watch

Sweet & Salty Make a Better Croissant

Find these prized Bavarian croissants from Fressen Artisan Bakery at Portland Farmers Markets. Go early or they'll be gone!

By Teri Gelber March 29, 2011


Fressen Artisan Bakery’s simply stunning Bavarian croissant. Photo credit: Timothy Bartling

Fressen Artisan Bakery doesn’t have a storefront. To find them, you’ll have to go to one of Portland’s farmers markets and pick up one of their insanely delicious Bavarian croissants.

Fressen’s croissant is a salty sweet prize amidst their seed-crusted health loaves. Beneath its burnished brown crust speckled with coarse salt, a rich crumb beckons. Bid adieu to Louboutin stilettos and sweater-clad terriers—you’re in the land of milkmaids and mountain men. Denser than its feathery Parisian counterpart, Fressen’s croissant is more bread-like, yet still layered with rich buttery goodness. It’s the best of both worlds.

Edger Loesch, owner of Fressen Bakery, has a few tricks up his sleeve. He uses local flour, Shepherd’s Grain, a Pacific Northwest co-op for farmers using sustainable practices. He used to bake his breads in a wood oven before moving his kitchen, and it shows in his love for charred crusts. Knowing when his croissants have reached that perfect moment between being done enough and over-baked is his forte. And instead of a traditional egg wash over the top to achieve that shiny, caramel crust, the croissant gets the same treatment as his German pretzels—a quick dip into a lye solution. Go ahead and gild this lily—spread some sweet butter on and sandwich a few slices of ham between. Trust me, at $3, it’s worth every buttery bite.

Look for Fressen’s stand at People’s, PSU, and Hillsdale farmers markets.

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